Two chamois, startled at this quiet time of day, bound across the trail, over the wall and into their state-protected sanctuary.

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Early evening is a magical time here, with only the occasional chamois grazing the slopes and the shrill whistling of marmots interrupting the pervading sense of calm.

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In the evenings, chamois (a goat-antelope species native to mountains in Europe) click across the surrounding rocks, and if the weather is clear you get the most unusual of mountain views, peering down onto ships far below on the Atlantic Ocean.

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