Wander along the main thoroughfare with people from all over the world, through clouds of scented tobacco smoke, past tacky souvenir shops for tourists that trade right next to bulk foodstuff shops for locals, and stop at a random cafe table for a spot of sweet black tea and people watching.

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Cukiernia, a cafe where residents and tourists form a line in the morning for a small table in front of its glass pastry case, gleaming with dozens of sweets.

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"Good surgeon, " nods the man sitting next to me in the cafe, appreciating the designer-draped, tanned and toned Barbie doll who is stilt walking past our table.

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Later, at Detroit airport, the tiniest thing - in a cafe, a man saw another customer's suit-bag flop onto the ground at a nearby table, into the path of oncoming travellers and their wheelie bags.

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