During the 1960s, many Spaniards exchanged a hard life as farm labourers for well-paid jobs in German factories or British restaurants.

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British restaurants have improved beyond belief, says Mr Harden.

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This is, in fact, the only British cheese he has in his restaurants either in France or Britain, and the only one that is offered by itself on a plate.

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"Normal visitors stayed away and the Olympic visitors didn't make up for it, " said Miles Quest from the British Hospitality Association, which represents hotels and restaurants.

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The enormous spa has two Ayurvedic doctors from India, and the two restaurants are overseen by a chef who previously cooked for the British Royal Family.

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The 35-seat Schwarzwaldstube has repeatedly been rated as one of the top restaurants in the world (most recently in 2009 by the British magazine, Restaurant), and holds 19.5 stars (out of 20) from Gault Millau, a French restaurant guide similar to Michelin.

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And the growing number of British farmers who have focused on quality to differentiate themselves are worried: they rely on restaurants as prime customers and as showcases for their produce.

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When France lifted a six-year ban on British beef in October after a mad cow scare, the government announced it would pass a law requiring restaurants to say where their meat came from.

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