The price of petit sale (a kind of New England boiled dinner), one pear, and a half bottle of Bordeaux is seven hundred francs.

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Hearty yet humble, it awakens the appetite but does not ask too much of the cook. (Who wants theatrics before coffee?) Traditionally assembled from the leftovers of that iconic New England meat-and-potatoes-feast known as "boiled dinner, " it is utilitarian and forgiving.

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The men, filthy from scavenging for belongings in the ruins, sit for a smoke and a chat, while the women prepare miso soup with vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and seaweed for dinner.

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For children, at least in our family, the main event wasn't the service, or snacking on the symbolic bitter herbs, hard-boiled eggs or sweet charoset (a paste made from apples and nuts), or even dinner.

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