Although the mould Penicillium roqueforti is added by manufacturers to produce the "blue" in cheeses, researchers found a yeast called Y. lipolytica directly influenced their smell.

BBC: Source of Stilton cheese's unique smell revealed

Ian Clark, the assistant restaurant manager, offers anywhere between 25 and 35 cheeses divided into four categories (hard, blue, soft and goat) regardless of their nationality.

WSJ: Bruce Palling on Food: On a Cheese-Selecting Mission With Alain Ducasse

Blackberry's four cheeses--Singing Brook, Violet, Trefoil and Blackberry Blue--are made by cheesemaker Kristian Holbrook and his assistants, who the day I visited included a fresh-faced young woman named Heidi, lacking only a dirndl and a yen to yodel to pass for a Swiss milkmaid.

FORBES: Weekend in the Country