Paul Roos kneels on the grassy banks of a creek in the Blackfoot Valley of Montana.

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For true luxury, head to the Blackfoot Valley in eastern Montana (state slogan: "The Last Best Place").

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The crowd gathered at the Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park erupts into a din of applause and cheers.

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Mr. EDWIN LITTLE PLUME (Blackfoot Indian): We're trying to hang on to our religion to the best that we can.

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In 1996 he and a partner, John Kowalski, built the first and only fly-fishing lodge on the Blackfoot, North Fork Crossing.

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To be fair, the groups of six tents do open up directly to nature, with a view of the Blackfoot river, the pine forest or the banks of Elk Creek.

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One of his ancestors, he said, was a Blackfoot Indian.

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The Blackfoot is the river Norman Maclean penned eternal in A River Runs Through It, his autobiographical account of two brothers finding grace through fly-fishing in the 1940s, which Robert Redford turned into a movie in 1992.

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But by the early 1990s the Blackfoot was in such bad shape--its valley scarred by clear cuts, its tributaries poisoned and turned orange with acid mine runoff--that the movie had to be filmed on rivers to the south.

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