That first night on the downs I slept in the dubious shelter of a forestry plantation called War Down, tucked into my little bivouac tent while the rain slipped down the conifer needles.

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To experience dawn on the summit of Mount Amaro, you can spend the night in the Mario Pelino bivouac hut, a circular red metal structure easily found at the top of the mountain.

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The tents of our company bivouac were laid out alongside a dusty road that the Seabees had bulldozed through the coral after the Marine and Army troops had wrested the island from the Japs, months before we replacements arrived.

NEWYORKER: Rat Beach