Between raving recommendations for the best smoked brisket, fried catfish and grilled rib eye, I was left lusting after a lonely side dish of cheese enchiladas.

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I'm down with Jeffrey Steingarten, Vogue's food writer, who says that the carapace of super-fatty beef that curves around the top of most rib-eye cuts is the best there is (though a case can be made for the tender smaller side of a Porterhouse or T-bone).

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He's the best putter out there these days and seems to be recovered from his rib injury.

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Sorry, I'll tune in again at bed time, but right now I've just got to hand-sharpen my new Japanese carbon-steel knife and mince shallots for the red-wine reduction sauce I'm slathering on those dry-aged rib-eyes that I got from Joe the Butcher, my new best friend.

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