Russian Esquire quipped that for the price, the road's 30 miles could be paved 1.1 centimeters deep in beluga caviar.

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In part, of course, these domestic producers are cashing in on the mystique of beluga caviar (and of less pricey Caspian osetra and sevruga).

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But in a quirky turn of history, the global success of beluga caviar has helped spawn, as it were, the comeback of U.S. caviar.

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Sandwiched in between those parties was a sumptuous "Millennium Dinner, " replete with Beluga Caviar, oysters, lobster and foie gras appetizers, and a rack of lamb entree.

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Trade in caviar from beluga sturgeon (the most threatened species) has already been halted unilaterally by America.

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Beluga prices would surely skyrocket, fixing the caviar even more securely at the top of the food-pricing chain.

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The all-time monster beluga, according to the pleasurable new book Caviar, by Inga Saffron: a Jaws-size 28-foot, 4, 570-pounder caught in 1736.

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But the American caviar industry is also being levered up on one end of a seesaw as the beluga sturgeon plummets on the other.

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