But dams, diversions and recent drought have combined to push the spawning salmon population in the Klamath well below the 35, 000-fish threshold deemed necessary for the river to maintain a sustainable salmon population.

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At the pan-Asian restaurant, the spare and chic Sangkar, chef Andrew Skinner, an old Pacific hand, prepares a flavorful mix of regional cuisines--Indonesian, South Asian and Japanese--often using fish hauled from the ocean just below, along with local produce, meats and spices.

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His job was to shout when he spotted a shoal of fish enter the cove, so the team below could trap and catch it.

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After all, seeing cool fish and colourful coral is the main reason divers descend below the surface.

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Any prey lurking below, typically a small fish called Mueller's pearlside, will not see the shark coming.

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We spotted the blue flash of a kingfisher, a sure sign that edible fish resided below.

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