The inside was tender and moist, the outside charred and crunchy in a good way, like a beef rib with built-in Kansas City burnt ends.

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The deal fell through, but after spending enough time there on reconnaissance trips, he decided to make an homage to his near-business venture and marry kimchi, grilled pork or beef short rib, and corn tortillas.

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Flanken-cut beef short rib (short rib cut across the bone into half-inch thick strips you may need to ask your butcher to do this) is a wonder, but hangar steak, skirt steak, even flank steak (marinated overnight) will work well too.

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I'm down with Jeffrey Steingarten, Vogue's food writer, who says that the carapace of super-fatty beef that curves around the top of most rib-eye cuts is the best there is (though a case can be made for the tender smaller side of a Porterhouse or T-bone).

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