In Indonesia, franchises offer durian and lychee flavoured doughnuts, while in Korea, red bean paste is a popular filling and green tea and garlic are popular glazes.

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Chef Pui Gor of Tim Ho Wan, a cheap, hole-in-the-wall, dim-sum-only restaurant with a cult following, makes a contemporary version of a bean curd skin roll, filling it with light shrimp rather than the traditional fatty minced pork.

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But the sight of tiny leaves unfurling on the bean vines and the scent of soil filling the room when I water them have been surprisingly gratifying.

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