The road that takes the refugees south from Kukes whether by bus, tractor or battered private car (whose Kosovar origin can be recognised by the absence of number-plates, seized by the Serbs) is pockmarked with reminders that Albania is desperately ill-equipped to receive them.

ECONOMIST: The refugees

"This isn't what we struggled for, " he says and turns to open the door of his small, battered, hatchback car.

BBC: Going out with South Africa's flashy young 'boasters'

While touring Uttar Pradesh this month, his car was battered by angry youths.

ECONOMIST: Indian politics

As I settled into the car, a battered Toyota Solara, Lanier apologized for the condition of the front seat, the footwell of which was cluttered with old magazines, half-empty plastic water bottles, and a squashed box of tissues.

NEWYORKER: The Visionary