Her cousin, Eric Norgren, who cooks at Hillbillies Vittles and tends bar at the Ice Hole, was just starting his bartending shift one weekend recently when he got a bite.

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When you can sit at the bar and jig your line right in the hole there, they like that.

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In TriBeCa, Terroir (24 Harrison St, near Greenwich Street, www.wineisterroir.com) is the sister of a much-loved hole-in-wall wine bar of the same name in the East Village.

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There's a place in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, called the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.

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Bar-owners say they need up to 20 licences to run a single drinking hole, and up to three-dozen if music is also to be allowed.

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The Ice Hole, which offers stew or chili, cornbread, several kinds of beer and a full bar, opened in mid-January, with regular hours on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

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Since Bacon's death in 1992, a new generation of British artists, notably Mr Hirst one of whose coloured dot paintings hangs over the bar and the portraitist Justin Mortimer, also represented here, have made this their own watering hole.

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