Lombok has fine beaches, beautiful coral, the highest mountain in the region, a benign climate and ambitions to become rich through tourism like its neighbour Bali.

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Our disappointment was salved, however, when we received the ikan bumbu bali, a plate of cod fish with pepper sauce that was rich and satisfying.

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Although Bulgari has thoughtfully provided two in-house shops to browse for Indonesian antiques and fabrics or the latest baubles from Milan, Bali's culture outside the walls is, of course, unbelievably rich in arts and natural beauty.

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As we head back out into the paddy fields, he lights a clove-scented cigarette and points to the shadowy, still-active volcano that shares its name with him - Gunung Agung, the tallest, most sacred mountain on Bali, from which rivers are said to flow and the volcanic soil gains its rich fertility.

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