The stove was needed every day for cooking, for baking bread (most of the people could not afford store-bought bread), and for heating wash water.

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However, as every baker knows, bread baking is something of an organic science.

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To hear Michael Bartholomeusz tell it, making thin film solar panels out of the promising but beguiling technology known as CIGS is about as easy as baking banana bread.

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You will not find much in the way of services but as you wander through the very narrow, cobbled alleyways you will happen upon women baking bread in outdoor, communal ovens, men whittling on doorsteps and neighbours gossiping in their distinctive dialect.

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