The Chambers secret sauce: sugar-sweet salesmanship baked slowly over a native West Virginia drawl.

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They also incorporated Western techniques such as baking, developing now-classic dishes like baked pork buns and sweet egg tarts.

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The Japanese happen to like their baked goods on the sweet side.

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It captures something essential about Prime Burger, a shopworn space which was last updated in the 1960s: It represents not just a business but a sort of home, to loyal staff like the ageless Eddie Adams, who baked there for 63 years and produced a sweet potato pie that could make hard men weep, and to generations of lost-and-gone New Yorkers like me.

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Mr. Brenner also nips out to a nearby bakery for sweet pastries and breads on the morning of the event, wanting to have the freshest possible baked goods on the table when his guests arrive.

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