He offers me broths of freshly harvested sweet-potato greens and baby bok choy, and though the air we breathe in here is itself a kind of broth, I sip them gratefully.
Take its namesake dish: one long marrow-filled bone, topped with briny dollops of sea urchin and Meyer-lemon aioli, a one-two-three punch of umami, balanced by baby celery greens and crispy cubelets of potato.