That famous red B looked as if it was made out of hand-dipped Maker's Mark wax.

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The Loueo Plains(ph) of the Mississippi delta spawned a legion of blues men in the 1940s and '50s, but maybe none more famous today than Riley B.

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Head 35km down the B-road, passing Batak (the site of a famous 19th-century uprising against the Ottomans), and continue deeper into the Rhodope Mountains towards Dospot.

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