More pleasant than the chaotic St Marks Place one block south, East 9th between Second Ave and Avenue A is a good intro to the vintage stores and curio shops of the East Village.

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Electronica rules at more Design District and Downtown clubs, lovely jazz spots are not hard to find, and a cosy but strong indie-rock scene centres around Sweat Records (5505 NE Second Ave) and Churchill's (5501 NE Second Avenue).

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