The commander, a vocal Wayne Rooney fan, finally drops us off at a hotel in Astara.
BBC: Why Azerbaijan is closer to Israel than Iran
"Ask me anything about the Iranians, " says one man who says he is travelling to Astara simply to drop off a music CD with friends.
The overnight train from Baku to the southern border town of Astara leaves at 11pm and makes its way slowly south, along the coast of the Caspian Sea.
Early in the morning, the train arrives in Astara.
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