Its speciality is lulas e camaroes grelhados con arroz, the local grilled squid and prawns, with rice and a lime sauce.

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La danza ritual, que es un elemento clave de esta fiesta, se baila al son de una flauta y de tambores para impetrar cosechas de arroz abundantes.

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Well Arroz, 50, the author of the soon-to-be-published If You Can Wear That, You Can Be That, recognizes that a major part of her personal success came from dressing the part.

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There, I continued my affair with rice puddings, exploring variations like Spanish arroz con leche, Indian kheer and khao niao sang khaya a sticky rice and coconut custard that's popular in Thailand.

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She spent all day making jams and cheeses, stewing batches of rich frijoles, killing chickens to put into her vats of tender arroz con pollo and frying long strips of plantains into crispy submission.

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At the age of35, Linda Arroz made a major career change: from a working on the assembly line at a General Motors plant as a spot-welder to an image consultant in the corporate and fashion worlds.

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The staff - and most of the diners - are dressed in black-and-white in sympathy, and it's probably no accident that by far the most popular of the 80 immaculately presented tortillas on the menu is the colour-coded morcilla de arroz de Burgos: black sausage and white rice.

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Pese a que cada mes ganan mucho menos de lo que cuesta un paquete de cigarros en los hoteles para turistas, la pareja afirma que son felices, especialmente ahora que poseen su propio terreno para cultivar hortalizas y arroz, que ambos usan para su propio consumo y para vender en el mercado local de agricultores.

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