The Aranui is that romantic breed of working ship that takes a small contingent of passengers in almost-cruise-ship style.

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But the allure of spending 14 days on a cargo vessel-turned-cruise ship had nothing to do with the bare-boned interior of the Aranui 3.

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"It always rains when the Aranui arrives, " said our driver, one of many locals who ferried cruise passengers deep into the rainforest, passing the 350m-high Vaipo Waterfall, the largest in the South Pacific, on the way.

BBC: A cruise to hidden Polynesia