Yet, now that Mr Menem and his Peronists have been voted out of office and replaced by the more sober Fernando de la Rua, it feels like the end of an era.

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As the song stops, abruptly, and the lights grow dim and dusty, and some fat guy, in long shot, ushers them out of their pod, it feels like the end of the world.

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Add one of the special packages with quilted, high-end leather, and it almost feels like a luxury car inside.

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"It feels like the end of the world, " said Lou Jacoubs, chef and owner of Harry's, flipping a steak on his industrial stove, which somehow survived 5 feet of flooding in the restaurant's kitchen.

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