Resort pioneer James Baillie opened Southern Ocean Lodge four years ago offering dramatic but low impact on the environment architecture and equally dramatic views of the surrounding cliffs and waves crashing ashore. (Riding those waves while I was there assorted dolphins.) All rooms face those ocean views, which become almost mesmerizing in winter, with storms rolling in as you sit by the living room fireplace staring out.

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The rivalry matches between the heavyweights became mesmerizing, almost mandatory.

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