But now, following the restoration, then closure due to floods and reopening earlier this year of the below ground hypogeum and the very top tier of the arena, visitors can get the viewfroma totally different perspective and without the crowds.
But it is also true of insiders, who need to learn that the viewfrom the top can be very different from the view that they were used to as the head of a department or a region.
Holzman reveals not only his inner life but the life of the city and the mores and artifacts of the day from the pace of the streets to the constant stream of Top Forty radio and a wondrous, hectic view of television.