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In places, even its primeval marrow juts out: where the river flattens we slide evenly past eerie, vertical folds of Vishnu schist, which our guides tell us whistle when the wind blows through its billion-year-old fins.
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Still, it seems silly to expect players to bring intensity and emotion into the game and turn it off at will when a whistle blows.
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The fighting starts when a signal such as an air horn or whistle blows, and can last anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours.
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