If intermittent small scale breaking is occurring, the average energy density is limited by conditions near the long wave crests.
如果间歇性的小尺度破碎正在发生，平均能量密度就要受到长波波峰附近状况的限制。
Determination of wave forces on a vertical wall is difficulty owing to violent change of near-shore wave dynamics by topographic and other factors and to subsequent wave breaking.
由于近岸波浪动力主要受地形等因素的影响变化剧烈，尤其伴随着波浪破碎，增加了直墙上波浪力确定的困难。
The near-shore wave-current field formed by the breaking of oblique incident wave is numerically simulated by applying the mild slope equation for describing the wave propagation in coastal zone.
波浪向近岸传播的过程中由波浪破碎等效应所形成的近岸波流场是近岸缓坡区域重要的环境动力因素之一。
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