ThenKy-Phuong Luong, the T.A., stirred awokfull of vegetablesandsoy-marinated crickets, and Dunkel passed aplateof fritters with yellowishwaxwormsprotruding from their centers.
Between them they keep alive a tradition that goes back centuries, a tradition celebrated on the plate in the form of stuffed mussels, marinated anchovies, octopus salad, deep-fried sea anemones, prawns with cannellini beans, and linguine with spiny lobster.