Twohours by car southeastofJohannesburg, where the California-quality N3Motorway meets a two-laneblacktophighway called R34, astretchof spectacularly deteriorated roadbegins to show itself.
We were into open country now, running straight up the coast about a mile from the ocean on a two-lane blacktop road across the dunes with no clouds in the sky and a full moon blazing down on the Pacific.