Now they are prized and pricey, found on mezzanines overlooking the kitchen or in glass-walled rooms adjoining the "hot line, " where cooks dish up their vittles.
Chef Danny Bowien sends his rendition of the dish to the table sputtering-hot and trailing fragrant steam herbaceous, spicy, mildly fishy that shakes you awake.
Anchored by the diminutive yet deeply flavorful birds, it is a light winter dish that speaks to Mr. Schwartz's love of contrasts: The quail is hot and sweet, the greens are cool, the pear slices are tender and the almonds add crunch.