This seemed uncivil, but perhaps wasn't. Neem trees are considered fair game in the village. And Shahabpuris greet each other sparingly. Yet the thought occurs because, underlying the village's bucolic charm, there is a lot of rudeness about. The 10,000-odd villagers—who make Shahabpur a medium-sized settlement in crowded north India—are arranged largely on the basis of caste. They live in caste-based ghettos; rarely socialise across caste lines, and never inter-marry. And the village dalits, as the former untouchables are now called, are often abused.

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