John Dory and caramelized fennel, green garlic, bouillabaisse jus, and black olive crostini enhanced by a full-bodied FeudidiSanGregorio 2007 Falanghina--I could go on (and we did, well into a third dessert), but suffice it to say that thanks to some thoughtful updating, the Mansion has reasserted itself among the Lone Star State's elite.