The meat-heavy stop, situated just north of downtown in the industrial Holy Cross area, is home to a full menu of housemade charcuterie from the Spicy Delaware Meatball, a pork salami packed with crushedchili, espelette pepper and garlic, to black truffle bologna.
At Perilla, where the cuisine tends to skew toward Italian-American and Eastern European influences, I serve a spaghettini with crab gravy studded with crushed red chili flakes, fennel seed and Thai basil.