"Nature rebels, " is the catchy headline of an article outlining the views of the Piemonte region's veterinary services chief, Mario Valpreda.

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"Back in Piemonte, nature is not totally our friend, " notes northern Italian wine icon Angelo Gaja, who began planting for his Ca'Marcanda near Bolgheri in 1996.

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As a rule of thumb, I prefer a juicy red wine, something like a Barbera from Piemonte, whose low tannins, high acidity and power cut through the pizza.

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