And about the beauty of the shoreline when seen from a buoyant lump of foam and fibreglass, while you get your breath back and wait for the next wave to come.
又比如在你重新呼气等着下个波浪再袭来时，你从透过漂浮的泡沫和水花中观看海岸会发现它是如此美。
At first, pressure in the heart rises and blood and fluid back up into your lungs. You will feel short of breath and get tired easily.
开始时，心脏内的压力升高，血液和液体阻塞在肺部，您会觉得呼吸短促，而且很容易疲倦。
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