The dam breaking wave was calculated.
计算了溃坝波问题。
The present paper summarizes the recent study of breaking wave.
本文概括地总结了近年来近破波研究概况。
Surfing is a sport of gliding toward the shore on a breaking wave.
冲浪是一种破浪向海岸滑行的运动。
What are the different ways you can get past a breaking wave without being pulverized?
穿过破浪波但没有被撕碎的方法有哪些？
The present paper describes the method for calculating the wave pressure of breaking waves.
本文提出了近破波波压力的计算方法。
And for non-breaking wave the horizontal particle velocity can be estimated by using regular wave theory.
对于非破波，质点的水平速度可以由规则波理论得到。
The model experiment on the motion behavior of caisson breakwaters is conducted under breaking wave excitation.
对近破波作用下沉箱式防波堤的运动特性进行了模型实验研究。
The models of interaction between breaking wave and breakwater, elastic vibration, sliding motion and rocking motion of breakwater are presented.
对摇摆和竖直非摇摆状态下两相流的流型以及压差波动进行了研究。
Compared with the test data, the estimated root mean square breaking wave forces have higher reliability and is recommended for engineering application.
与实测的破碎波总力相比，均方根破碎波浪力的估算结果具有较高的置信度，建议在工程中应用。
Using which of the deep water characteristics to compute the breaking wave characteristics and then the longshore transport rate is a problem yet not being clarified.
用什么特征波要素来推求破波要素以计算出沿岸输沙率，尚有一些问题业未澄清。
A vibrating_rocking motion model of caisson breakwater under breaking wave impact is presented, which can be used to simulate its histories of vibrating_rocking motion.
文中建立了沉箱式防波堤弹性振动-摇摆运动分析模型，可对破碎冲击作用下防波堤的弹性振动-摇摆运动过程进行数值摸拟。
For breaking wave the horizontal particle velocity can be taken as the wave celerity, since the wave is breaking when horizontal particle velocity is equal to or larger than the wave celerity.
而对于破波，质点的水平速度应该等与波速，由于破波产生的极限就是质点的水平速度等于或大于波速。
"Old America seemed to be breaking up and moving westward," observed an English visitor in 1817, during the first great wave of migration.
1817年，在第一次移民大潮中，一位英国游客观察到：“古老的美洲似乎正在分裂并向西移动。”
Quiet, he ordered with a brisk wave of an upturned palm - I was breaking his concentration. Yes, he was in charge, alright.
他手掌向上很快挥了一下，悄无声息地发出了命令——我打断了他的注意力，是的，他确是头领。
When a wave hits them, the posts would redirect it around the object without ever breaking the wave.
当波撞击它时，同心圆将在不打碎波的情况下改变其传播方向。
So we can do this essentially for any atom we want, we just have more and more wave functions that we're breaking it up to as we get to more and more electrons.
所以我们基本上对，任何一个原子都可以这么做，我们仅仅会有越来越多的波函数，因为我们将它分为越来越多的电子。
Is a new merger wave, widely predicted in the past year, finally breaking?
去年有人指出今年会有新的兼并浪潮，果真应验了？
Besides, if one slightly larger than usual wave came in, you might not be past its breaking point.
这时候，如果一个稍微有点大的波浪过来，你恐怕没啥机会躲开波浪的破浪点。
We can do the exact same thing when we talk about lithium, but now instead of breaking it up into two wave functions, we're breaking it up into three wave functions because we have three electrons.
在讨论锂时，我们也可以做，完全相同的事情，但不是把它分为两个波函数，而是分为三个波函数，因为我们有3个电子。
Based on experimental analysis and theoretical calculation, the wave velocity field has been obtained, which is used to calculate the wave height after breaking by VOF (Volume of Fluid) method.
首先通过实验测量和理论计算得到波浪崩破时的速度场，然后根据该速度场利用VOF法计算波浪破碎后的波高值；
If intermittent small scale breaking is occurring, the average energy density is limited by conditions near the long wave crests.
如果间歇性的小尺度破碎正在发生，平均能量密度就要受到长波波峰附近状况的限制。
Method of characteristics, graphical interpretation of the solutions, wave breaking.
特征值方法，解的图像阐释，波的阻断。
In the numerical model a 'narrow slot 'method is adopted to simulate mobile shore line and an eddy viscosity method to simulate wave breaking.
模型中通过“狭槽法”来处理波浪在岸线处的动边界条件，采用涡粘模型来模拟波浪破碎引起的能量耗散。
Determination of wave forces on a vertical wall is difficulty owing to violent change of near-shore wave dynamics by topographic and other factors and to subsequent wave breaking.
由于近岸波浪动力主要受地形等因素的影响变化剧烈，尤其伴随着波浪破碎，增加了直墙上波浪力确定的困难。
The effective temperature of fast electrons is consistent with the temperature scaling of the resonance absorption, which is due to Landau damping or wave breaking.
快电子的有效温度较好地满足共振吸收的温度定标律是由于反射激光加速与共振吸收机制均是通过朗道阻尼或波破对电子进行加速的。
Just as the wave is breaking, take one or two strong pulls, hold your breath, get in a good streamline, and kick like crazy in order to stay on the front of the wave.
正当波浪破浪的时候，猛划两下，屏住呼吸，保持一个好的流线型，玩命打腿，好把自己保持在波浪的前面。
A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is established to study the breaking standing wave action on a vertical-wall structure in the case of regular wave.
建立二维非线性数值波浪水槽，模拟了规则波条件下破碎立波对直墙建筑物的作用。
The influence of relativistic and thermal effects on plasma wave breaking has been studied by solving the coupled Vlasov-Poission equations.
通过数值求解符拉索夫方程和泊松方程，研究了相对论效应和温度效应对等离子体振荡破裂的影响。
Further, numerical simulating studies about the interaction of a dam breaking long wave with an obstacle have also been done with reasonable results.
进一步对溃坝洪水长波与地面障碍物的作用进行数值模拟，得到了合理的结果。
Further, numerical simulating studies about the interaction of a dam breaking long wave with an obstacle have also been done with reasonable results.
进一步对溃坝洪水长波与地面障碍物的作用进行数值模拟，得到了合理的结果。
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