碎波；海啸；海洋水利及海象描述；气候分类。
Breaking Waves; Tsunamis; Ocean Hydro Sea States; Weather Classifications.
当波撞击它时，同心圆将在不打碎波的情况下改变其传播方向。
When a wave hits them, the posts would redirect it around the object without ever breaking the wave.
结果表明：（1 ）碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性；
The results are as follows. (1) The remarkable multiple scales of wave energy oscillations exist in the surf zone.
与实测的破碎波总力相比，均方根破碎波浪力的估算结果具有较高的置信度，建议在工程中应用。
Compared with the test data, the estimated root mean square breaking wave forces have higher reliability and is recommended for engineering application.
结果表明，在正常波况下，此海滩碎波带显示了以砂坝-裂流槽谷为主的多种地形组合的变化过程。
The results showed that the fast change processes of the morphologies which were mainly composed of bar and trough with other various morphology assemblages existed in the beach and surf-zone$…
结果表明，在正常波况下，此海滩碎波带显示了以砂坝-裂流槽谷为主的多种地形组合的变化过程。
The results showed that the fast change processes of the morphologies which were mainly composed of bar and trough with other various morphology assemblages existed in the beach and surf-zone$…
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