In Ningxia, Gansu and Inner Mongolia, for example, they are drawing far more than their fair share of the Yellow River's water.
And it is not only the water in the Yellow River, which flows through nine provinces, that is at risk from contamination.
The glossy black fin and back of a minke whale rose a hundred yards astern, two yellow-striped dolphins broke water and plunged down again, and then the flow of the turned tide could be seen as a chop on the water, small standing waves that indicated the Minch was reversing its direction.
Mr. Li, the Lanzhou environmental official, claims rotting corpses have not affected the water quality of the Yellow River, but his assertions do not ring true.
Behind the vessel, a speedboat, a series of empty plastic oil jugs blue, green, yellow, black bobbed in the water.
The thinking is that by shipping water north, the strain of overuse on the Yellow River will be relieved.
The Yellow River, one of the world's longest, supplies water to more than 150 million people and 15 percent of China's agricultural land.
We would begin praying and sprinkling these rather ordinary implements with yellow turmeric powder, red roli powder, grains of rice, holy water, and flower petals.
When Elaine Rothenhaus brought her yellow Labrador Bella to a swimming lesson, the puppy took to the water fearlessly, but her rear side kept sinking.
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In case you don't have your smartphone app handy, the taps are equipped with LED lights to show the water's filter status as well -- blue means clean, yellow means not so much and red means you should probably get a new filter, pronto.
Opened in 2010, the light-filled building with its pale-wood furniture and splashes of bright blue and yellow prides itself on being an eco-friendly hotel that pays close attention to its energy and water consumption and contributes to the community (for example, the mostly organic breakfast is provided by local bakers and greengrocers).
All of the water problems of northern China seem to come into sharp focus here, 70 miles from the Yellow River, and even closer to the desert.
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