Dining areas in both have long wooden tables, stone fireplaces and outdoor wood-burning pizza ovens.

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Bassoul could now hit large accounts like Yum more effectively since Middleby already sold ovens to Pizza Hut and Blodgett provided KFC with fryers.

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UN's World Food Programme had to stay silent about the famine death toll in the mid-1990s if it wanted to stay on to help the survivors, even as Kim Jong Il, the North's current tormentor, was ordering in not just pizzas, but special pizza chefs, special ovens and the finest ingredients to tickle his palate.

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Perhaps the same with pizza: turning on 100 domestic ovens to make 100 pizzas or using one commercial one for four hours to do so?

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This one-of-a-kind restaurant is like a pizza museum: it has seven different ovens using every conceivable fuel - coal, wood, gas, and electric - at temperatures ranging from 550 to 1000 degrees, in an effort to turn out the best and most authentic versions of nine distinctly different regional styles of pizza.

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Pizza first arrived in New York in the 1890s as Italian immigrants from Naples rented hours in local bakery ovens, then sold their products on the street, said Mr. Arena.

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