The local speciality is cozido, a rich stew made of kale, cabbage, carrots, potatoes, pork, beef, chicken and sausages, cooked for six to seven hours in the soil's geothermal heat.

BBC: The adventure playground of the Azores

Now two London-based Arab women, Rana Salam and Malu Halasa, are shining a spotlight on this little-known local speciality, with a new book called The Secret Life of Syrian Lingerie.

BBC: Sexy secrets of the Syrian souk

The race card at each meeting features flat racing, winter-style trotting and the local speciality, skijoring -- an awkward combination of horse, human and skis which is a clear crowd favorite.

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But if it was meant as a simile, it could also be taken literally -- because in a number of these caves, the local speciality, Cabrales cheese (a blue cheese similar to Roquefort) is quietly ageing in the gloom.

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The proprietor, Chris Bouwer, a trained opera singer who has performed across Europe, sings with local guest performers while you tuck into the house speciality of Karoo lamb shank.

BBC: South Africa��s arty eastern Karoo

Its speciality is lulas e camaroes grelhados con arroz, the local grilled squid and prawns, with rice and a lime sauce.

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