"You have to be barmy to buy your smokes in France, " says Christophe Nonnenbacher, as he lights up in a cafe in central Strasbourg.

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The cafe, in the Central Methodist Church, has been closed for nearly two months whilst a new kitchen and serving area has been created.

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Outside of festival times, the quiet village offers a dose of understated Algarvian charm: sun-baked white houses feature Moorish design details, such as coloured bars around the doorways, while the petite central square is flanked by a lovely 16th-century church and a tiny cafe selling delicious homemade pastries, cakes and ice cream.

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