Wine : Bordeaux-style red, "Double T, " Trefethen Vineyards, Napa, Calif.

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The star varietal is malbec, a red wine made from the malbec grape that is native to Bordeaux but actually thrives better in the high-altitude terrain of Mendoza than anywhere else in the world.

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The Japanese, who are now wine-crazy, became the world's biggest market for red Bordeaux in 1998, with the Australians left trailing in what they regard as their own Asian backyard.

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When I looked at le carte des vins at La Tupina, a roadside restaurant, I surfed dozens of wines, both red bordeaux and white bordeaux that I had never heard of despite my extensive cellar and wine library.

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