S. in Madison and was now very active in the craze for Beaujolais nouveau.
There were all kinds of alternatives, starting with Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais.
WSJ: Lettie Teague Says Goodbye to Pinot Noir��for a While | On Wine
Beaujolais is just north of the city of Lyons, the cradle of French gastronomy, which for centuries consumed most of the wine.
The U.S. wine business hasn't seen anything like this since the beaujolais nouveau hype that established French giant Georges Duboeuf in 1981.
The Bone Jolly, a Gamay grown in California, was light and pleasant with bright cherry fruit more basic Beaujolais than would-be Pinot Noir.
WSJ: Lettie Teague Says Goodbye to Pinot Noir��for a While | On Wine
The red wines from the Beaujolais region are made from the Gamay grape, particularly well-suited to the granite-based soils of the area.
Cafe Beaujolais became, in itself, a travel destination for food lovers.
Mike Leigh's work remains as relevant to Britain today as it was in 1977 when Beverly famously put the Beaujolais in the fridge.
The Gamays (the grape of Beaujolais) were definitely the most food-flexible of all, with just the right measure of acidity, earthiness and fruit.
WSJ: Wine and Food: Pairing Without Overthinking | On Wine by Lettie Teague
Brouilly is perhaps the most outgoing and hedonistic of the crus of Beaujolais, which may explain its immense popularity in the bistros of Paris.
Indeed, Beaujolais became so unfashionable for a while, that it's now enjoying a kind of contrarian geek revival as if Beaujolais were the Hush Puppies of the wine world.
Beaujolais can be rather simple in its most basic incarnation but some wines, especially those from the Beaujolais crus (the nine prestigious subdistricts), can be surprisingly complex, even Burgundy-like.
WSJ: Lettie Teague Says Goodbye to Pinot Noir��for a While | On Wine
Deutsch, Yellow Tail's success is comparable to that of Duboeuf, which burst upon the American scene in 1981 with its now trademark annual hyping of the release of Beaujolais Nouveau.
It may have been partly the romantic feeling of haven, partly gratitude at having the old Beaujolais back in form, but that night there seemed to be an unusual number of couples leaning across their tables to kiss.
In that spirit, before I tell you how seriously good the best cru Beaujolais are, let me assure you that they're not all that serious, although some very serious winos like sommelier Rajat Parr of San Francisco's RN74 are among their new champions.
" Longtime resident Bill Buford, author of the celebrated "Heat, " says of Beaujolais: "It's tart and bright and acidic, and perfect with birds and boudin noir and kidneys and ris de veau, and all the rich, piggy, fatty, creamy, gamey food that has made the Lyonnais so weirdly robust and happy.
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